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The level of discussion went downhill with the departure of Ezra and Sara and the replacement with Dara and Jane. I do really like the addition of the Friday deep dives with Matt and the expert guest.

Identify Common Garden Weeds: Dandelions, Clover and More

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The New York Times. Up First. Borrowed Future. Organic mulches that have been on the soil for a while decomposing can provide an adequate growth medium for weeds to germinate and grow in. If crabgrass is germinating in the mulch, move it about with a rake to reduce seedling establishment. Mouse-ear chickweed. When growing without competition from other plants, common chickweed can produce approximately seeds and it takes 7 to 8 years to eradicate.

Fortunately, annual chickweed is easier to control as long as you control before it flowers. This can be difficult due to the short period between germination and flower production so you need to keep an eye out for this weed. Both types have shallow roots, so they can often be removed by hoeing or hand-pulling if done early. New plants can grow from broken pieces of mouse-ear rootstock, however, so make sure you remove the entire plant when using either method.

Using an organic mulch such as wood chips, at least two inches deep, will reduce the amount of weed seeds germinating by limiting light and serving as a physical barrier. Synthetic mulches such as landscape fabrics may also be used. In landscaped areas, they should be covered with an additional layer of mulch rock or bark. A healthy lawn can compete against mouse-ear chickweed if the grass is not mowed too short or too frequently.

Watering the lawn deeply and infrequently will encourage the grass to grow deeper roots, which also can help it compete against chickweed.

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Chickweed is also edible. Ah, we love much about dandelions with their bright yellow heads in the springtime. They provide a lovely source of food for bees early in the year, and the jagged leaves of this perennial Taraxacum officinale are even edible, especially when young and tender. The flowers, too, can be eaten raw or fried, or used to make dandelion wine!

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They have the most weedy characteristics of all the weeds. Removing dandelions by hand-pulling or hoeing is often futile, unless done repeatedly over a long period of time, because of the deep tap root system of established plants.

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Alternatively, use a hand trowel to dig them out. Dense turfgrass and ornamentals shade the soil surface, reducing the establishment of new dandelion seedlings. Many broadleaf weeds may be controlled with mowing but this is NOT true of dandelion. For a garden bed , mulches of wood chips or bark are effective if they are maintained at a depth of least 3 inches deep and replaced over time. Mulching with landscape fabrics can be particularly effective for controlling seedlings, reducing the amount of light that is able to reach the soil.

Solitary new dandelion plants along fence rows, roadsides, flower beds, and in turfgrass should be grubbed out removed by digging out the entire plant, taproot and all before they produce seed. Dandelion knives and similar specialized tools are available for removing individual weeds and their roots while minimizing soil disturbance. Purslane is an annual succulent that reproduces by tiny black seeds and stem fragments. Purslane also can reproduce vegetatively through its succulent leaves, making it especially tough to eradicate.

The primary method of management for common purslane is prevention. In home landscapes and gardens, this weed is generally managed by hand-weeding. Young purslane is edible, too! Mulching is also helpful, especially in garden beds. To be effective, organic mulches should be at least 3 inches thick. Synthetic mulches plastic or fabric mulch which screen out light and provide a physical barrier to seedling development, also work well. Fabric mulches, which are porous and allow flow of water and air to roots, are preferred over plastics.

A flowering annual that reproduces by seeds. Nutsedges are perennial weeds that superficially resemble grasses, but they are thicker and stiffer and V-shaped. Remove small plants before they develop tubers.

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  8. Tubers are key to nutsedge survival. Also, eliminate the wet conditions that favor nutsedge growth. Use mulches in landscape beds. Canada thistle Cirsium arvense is an aggressive, creeping perennial weed from Eurasia.

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    Introduced perennial from Eurasia. Reproduces by seeds and whitish, creeping rootstocks which send up new shoots every 8 to 12 inches. Then, it will send up shoots every 8 to 12 inches. The plants will grow 2 to 4 feet tall. Canada Thistle is difficult to control because its extensive and deep root system allows it to recover from control attempts. Horizontal roots may extend 15 feet or more and vertical roots may grow 6 to 15 feet deep! The first plants need to be destroyed by pulling or hoeing before they become securely rooted.

    An approved herbicide, applied for two years in an established in a thistle-infested area, is an effective control. Usually, a combination of techniques is needed. Native to Europe, it has become an invasive lawn weed in North America.

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    The plant has bright green leaves with scalloped edges on creeping stems that root at the nodes. If Creeping Charlie is invading a thin lawn, try to improve turf health and density to get weeds under control. This can be accomplished by mowing regularly to a height of two to three and one-half inches , fertilizing and watering appropriately, and overseeding in the fall. Also, make sure to grow the most suitable type of turfgrass for the location e. In areas where Creeping Charlie has become established, try removing plants by hand.

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    This is the control method of choice in vegetable or flower gardens. However, this may not be a viable option in heavily infested areas, as the extensive spreading stems of creeping Charlie can be difficult to completely remove. If you have mats of weed, smother with newspaper or tarp.

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    Borax, once used for organic control, is not recommended for creeping Charlie or other broadleaf weed control. Often, herbicide applications are a necessary last resort. Great article on Weeds It is awful and even worse to get rid of. Several applications of a weed killer with Dicamba helps BUT you also need to saturate section by section once dead looking then pull it out.

    Like most weeds you can't leave even the tiniest piece or root which are VERY deep. I used to buy delicious cream of lambsquarters soup from a small store connected to a biodynamic farm. I never realized until now it was a weed. Ha, ha, I just watched a documentary on Dr Emoto's experiments with water crystals.